There are many simple things you can do to save energy and money at home — and help the environment at the same time! From increasing your home’s insulation, to making your household appliances more efficient through proper selection, use and maintenance, we can give you some great tips.
Here is a range of practical, simple things you can do to save energy in just about every room in your home. First, make a plan
Recognize that your house is a system and that changes to one part of your home will affect the other parts. For example, if you are upgrading your windows or insulation, you may not need such a large furnace. Home improvements tend to make your home more airtight and reduce the amount of heat lost from your home.
Get help from the experts If you are planning major renovations, get advice from architects, engineers and registered gas contractors. When choosing a contractor, remember: least expensive isn’t always best — take the time to check references and get more than one quote.
Ask for an audit This is one audit you won’t mind! Specialized contractors can do an audit of your home’s energy use and recommend upgrades that will lead to an improvement in your home’s efficiency.
Terasen Gas does not perform home audits but many contractors do
NRCan has grants for customers that perform an Energuide for Houses audit and improve the efficiency of their home.
The NRCan website provides more information including a list of Energy Advisors in your area.
One of the most important things you can do if you are building a new home or planning renovations is to make sure that any additions or new appliances are properly designed and installed to meet the needs of your home. The success of your investment depends on it! A top-of-the-line appliance could fail to perform to its full potential if it’s not installed or maintained correctly.
If you plan on financing the purchase, the monthly savings on your utility bill should be considered when determining the actual monthly cost of replacing a system. The offsetting savings may permit you to purchase a more efficient system.
Explore Your Options There are many natural gas options available for everything from cooking to drying and heating to cooling. For example, if you are buying a new heating system, you can choose a forced air or hydronic (hot water) system. One system may be better suited to your needs than another. Size matters, so be sure that the appliance you choose is properly sized for your home. You don’t want an appliance that is so small it won’t meet your needs. You also don’t want an appliance that is too big, or you’ll be paying for more than you need and your installation costs will be higher.
Look for high-efficiency Efficiency is a measure of how well your appliance uses fuel to deliver heat. New high-efficiency natural gas appliances are very efficient and in many cases, very price-competitive with traditional appliances. And best of all, they’ll deliver fuel cost savings for years to come.
Look for the Energy Star® symbol when you shop for a natural gas furnace, boiler or fireplace.
Products bearing this international symbol are the most energy-efficient in their class.
Consider True Costs
The true cost usually involves more than just purchasing the appliance or upgrade. You should also consider:
Installation cost Talk to your contractor about planning installation work — such as prepiping — in advance. You’ll avoid the need for additional installation features sometimes necessary to accommodate a new appliance or upgrade.
Energy savings Choose an energy efficient appliance or upgrade and you’ll save money by saving energy.
Maintenance cost Offset future labour costs by allowing adequate space and access for servicing when planning new appliances or upgrades.
Change or clean filters and keep the fan compartment door tightly closed. Be sure to shut off the electricity at the appliance switch and circuit breaker panel first!
Have your furnace serviced as recommended by the manufacturer. Proper maintenance keeps your furnace working safely and at peak efficiency.
If your furnace is more than 20 years old, it probably has a pilot light. You can shut the pilot off in the summer to save energy. If you’re not comfortable re-lighting your pilot light, have your registered gas contractor re-light it at your next regular furnace maintenance visit.
If your appliance has a fan belt, inspect it for cracks or signs of wear (and replace if necessary) when you change the filters.
Keep vents and air returns clear of furniture, lint, dust or pet hair.
Check the chimney and appliance vent system at least once a year. Check that the pipe is connected securely, that there are no signs of
corrosion or damage, and that nothing has fallen into the base of the chimney or into the flue.
Keep the areas around your heating equipment clear of anything that can catch fire. Do not store or use flammable materials near gas appliances. Don’t block or close off air openings.
Don’t enclose your appliance without the help of a registered gas contractor.
If you need to replace your furnace, choose an ENERGY STAR® model model for your house. Your registered gas contractor can help you choose the most appropriate furnace.
Thermostats Turn your thermostat down to 20˚C during the day and 17˚C at night to save as much as 15 per cent on your heating costs.
A programmable thermostat can make setting temperatures back easy. It automatically controls the temperature to help you save energy at night and when you’re away from home.
Try getting comfortable by putting on a sweater or slippers, instead of turning up the thermostat.
Keeping the Heat In Use door “socks” — long, snake-like pieces of material stuffed with sand or birdseed — to stop drafts under exterior doors with too big a gap to weatherstrip. Hang sock on the door knob when not in use.
Open your drapes in the morning to take advantage of the sun’s heat during the day. Close them when the sun sets.
Use ceiling fans to push warm air down to where you need it.
To warm a cold basement floor, install subflooring and cover it with carpeting or carpet tile. A cold air return to the furnace will help lift that pool of cool static air off the floor.
Use carpets with a thick underlay over cold floors. They help to insulate.
If you’re building an addition or new home, consider radiant underfloor hydronic heating that turns every floor in your home into a radiator. Even hardwood, tile and marble floors can be warm to the feet. Be sure that the underside of the floor is properly insulated to keep the heat where it’s needed.
Vacuum baseboard heaters twice a year. Dust can reduce the effectiveness of the heater.
Pull furniture away from heaters and registers to allow air to circulate freely.
Add natural gas room heaters in hard-to-heat areas like home offices, garages and enclosed porches to supply heat only when and where it’s needed. These easy-to-install, compact heaters can be mounted on the wall or flush with the floor, and most require no electric power. Some models can also be direct-vented through an exterior wall so that a chimney is not necessary.
Don’t open windows to “air” your house in winter (unless you are using an open hearth wood-burning fireplace in which case a window should be open). This defeats all your energy-saving efforts. Besides, because warm air seeks out cold air, an older “leaky” house will completely replace its interior air every hour or so.
Heat vanishes through walls, roofs, cracks, crevices and through conductors like glass. Hot air not only rises, it moves in any direction, from a warm spot to a colder one, so any leaks you detect should be stopped.
We need some fresh air, but not as much as most leaky houses allow in.
Here’s what you can do about it:
Check for leaks using the feather test. • Take a down feather (a strip of tissue paper or lighted incense will also work), and run the feather along the inside edges of doors and windows to detect drafts. Make sure your furnace is turned off, as its operation can affect the test. • Check along your interior walls, too. Caulk, weatherstrip or seal any leaks you find. •
Check for drafts, cracks and holes in unusual places: milk or mail chutes, laundry chutes, pet doors, firewood chutes (block them up completely if you don’t use them), attic access hatches, recessed lights and fans in insulated ceilings, dropped ceilings above bathrooms and bulkheads over kitchen cabinets.
• Check for gaps and leaks. A 5 mm gap (approximately a 5th of an inch) at the bottom of an exterior door has the effective cooling power of a hole 10 cm (approximately 4 inches) square in the middle of a wall. Caulk, weatherstrip or seal the leaks.
For some homes, simply making sure that windows and doors are properly caulked could save up to 10 per cent on heating bills.
Caulking Used where two materials meet but do not move relative to each other
Caulk cracks and holes around windows, pipe and wire entrances, vents (bath, dryer, kitchen), baseboards, interior and exterior light fixtures, electrical outlets and attic hatches. This is best done in warmer weather, especially if you’re using polymeric foam fillers.
Choose the right type of caulking for the job: liquid, semi-liquid, solid or spray foam. Cheaper brands may need replacing more often.
Be sure to use a heat-resistant compound around sources of heat like chimneys, light fixtures or fan motors and make sure all surfaces to be caulked are clean and dry.
For maximum benefit, caulk in conjunction with weather-stripping and the installation of air-vapour barriers.
If possible, caulk from the inside surface of exterior walls, ceilings or floors. Sealing cracks from the inside prevents air escaping into hidden cavities in the walls and roof.
Do seasonal house checks in the fall and spring. Inspect all windows and doors for caulking and weatherstripping damage.
Remember: do not fill ventilation or combustion air ducts.
Weatherstripping Used where one surface moves relative to another, like doors and attic hatches
Weatherstrip exterior doors. Rubber provides the best seal; felt and foam are inexpensive but much less effective and durable.
Replace old weatherstripping around doors as well as poor-fitting striker plates.
Sealing Used where a sealed bond is essential, for example, where one sheet of vapour barrier must be sealed with another
Seal plumbing holes in walls, especially under sinks and behind bathtubs.
Preparing to paint is an ideal time to seal air leaks. Remove trim or baseboards and seal the wall behind. If possible, expose the window and door framing and seal any cracks and holes.
Check your house for poor insulation. Poorly insulated roofs, basement walls, floors over crawl spaces and outside walls allow a direct flow of heat to the outside. Insulation is like throwing a giant sleeping bag around your house.
Insulating materials are rated by their resistance to transfer heat. The higher the rating, or RSI/R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness.
Start insulating in the attic and the basement to get the greatest energy savings for money spent. Ask for advice on the best material for your use. The most commonly used are blankets and batts, loose fill (hand-poured or machine blown into place), or rigid insulation boards (often used for basement walls). For environmental and health reasons, consider renewable, non-toxic cellulose-based insulation.
Make sure the attic access hatch is insulated, tightly closed and weatherstripped. Since it is a large potential opening, a great deal of heated air can escape into the attic.
Buy CSA (Canadian Standards Association) approved high-density foam gaskets to fit between cover plates and receptacles of electrical outlets. Turn off the power before installing.
Take advantage of renovations to properly air-seal and insulate kitchens and bathrooms which are normally difficult to get at because cabinets, sinks and bathtubs are in the way.
Fix leaky taps immediately. The smallest drip from a worn washer can waste hundreds of litres of water a month! If it’s hot water, you’re also wasting a lot of energy.
Install low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators. Efficient showerheads can cut water use by 60 per cent compared to conventional fixtures.
Use cold water to rinse hands and dishes. How many times have you turned on the hot water tap, but finished washing your hands before the water got hot?
Run washing machines with full loads, and rinse with cold water.
Use dishwasher only when it’s fully loaded. Use “energy saver” cycle if available.
Insulate long stretches of hot-water pipes passing through unheated areas. (Any pipe within one metre of the tank should be wrapped with a preformed pipe insulation like Thermaflex.) Special wrap is available at hardware and building supply stores. Be sure to use heat-resistant wrap.
Add hot to cold rather than cold to hot when you need warm water.
Rather than rinsing dishes separately under a tap, put them in the drainer and pour a bowl of water over them.
Switch to an electric razor. Believe it or not, shaving with an electric razor uses less energy than it takes to heat the hot water you would use for a traditional shave.
At the very least, don’t let the hot water run; half-fill the basin. Otherwise, up to 76 litres (20 gallons) of water can run down the drain with those whiskers.
If you’re in the market for a new washing machine, consider a front-loading model. According to Natural Resources Canada, front-loading washers use about 40 per cent less water per load and 50 per cent less energy than top-loading washers.
Downsize to instantaneous water heaters. These small, space-saving units can be wall mounted and heat water only as it’s needed (without a tank). You get a continuous stream of hot water at considerable savings. The heater should be properly sized to meet your needs.
If you’re in the market for a new gas fired hot water heater, consider direct or power vented models and buy as efficient a model as possible.
Fireplaces Shine a flashlight up your wood-burning fireplace to make sure the damper fits tightly when it’s closed.
If you have a wood-burning fireplace, winterize it. Check damper seals and repair if necessary. Patch cracks and gaps in brickwork.
Install glass doors on your wood-burning fireplace to stop heated air in your home from escaping up the chimney, and to keep cold air from being drawn down the chimney when it is not in use.
Switch from a wood-burning to a natural gas fireplace heater insert for savings and convenience. There are many models and designs to choose from.
An insulated outer casing can help prevent heat loss through the outside walls if the fireplace will be located on an exterior wall.
Look for direct vent fireplaces and features such as an electronic ignition system or an easy means of turning off and relighting the pilot light.
For added comfort, use a fireplace thermostat to control the room temperature.
Keeping the Heat Out - Air Conditioning Choose an energy-efficient model or system. Air conditioners must meet minimum efficiency standards. The higher the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) the more efficient the unit and the bigger your savings.
Install blinds on the outside of south-facing windows to cut summer heat by acting more like an awning. Matchstick blinds are inexpensive and work well, even laid atop skylights on the roof.
Install low-speed ceiling fans. Surprisingly, these are more efficient than higher-speed fans and more pleasant to the ear!
Keep the oven door seal tight — don’t peek when you’re baking! Each time you open the door, you lose about 20 per cent of the heat inside.
Self-cleaning ovens can mean savings of up to 15 per cent in energy because of the additional insulation, offsetting the annual energy use of the self-cleaning feature. Use “self-clean” right after cooking a meal to take advantage of heat already in the unit. Don’t use self-clean more than once a month.
Keep drip pans under conventional coil burners clean. Don’t line drip pans with aluminum foil. This may reflect too much heat and damage elements.
Use good quality pots that are the right size for the job and that match the size of the burners. Always use tight-fitting lids to heat food and boil water.
Natural gas ovens with infra-red broilers cook food faster than electric ovens and reduce food shrinkage for juicier meat.
Check your oven temperature. Use a separate oven thermometer to check that your oven control is accurate.
Use glass baking dishes for more efficient heat transfer.
Plan meals so you can cook an entire meal in the oven, from roast to baked potato.
Clothes Dryer Look for dryer models with a moisture sensor that will shut the dryer off when clothes are dry.
Avoid partial loads.
Clean the lint screen after every load. Wash lint screen once a year with a toothbrush and detergent to rid it of film left by fabric softeners and dryer sheets.
Once a year, disconnect the dryer moisture exhaust duct from the dryer and clean it out. It should be free of lint, dust and pet hair; and should be completely round — not kinked — to ensure that products of combustion and warm moist air are effectively exhausted outside.
Go outside and check that the dryer moisture exhaust duct opening is clear (birds and small animals have been known to live in them, people park wood or equipment in front of them, moveable shutters can get blocked with lint).
Moveable shutters on the dryer exhaust duct opening prevent cold air, heat and insects from entering the dryer vent when the dryer is not operating.
Overloading the dryer lengthens drying time. Clothes should dry in 40 minutes to one hour.
Choose a cycle with “cool-down” (perma-press). No heat is supplied in the last few minutes, but drying continues as cool air is blown through tumbling clothes.
Run consecutive loads to take advantage of accumulated heat.
House Exterior Use insulated exterior doors — not hollow ones.
Feel the inside of the door with your hand on a cold day. If it’s much cooler than adjoining walls, consider replacing it with an insulated door.
Check the tracks of sliding glass doors for dirt. This can throw the doors out of alignment and cause air leakage.
Keep garage doors closed if the garage is attached to your house. Make sure the bottom edge of the doors is weatherstripped and sealed tightly.
Check the sole plate in your home. This is where the walls meet the foundation — and where most air infiltration takes place in Canadian homes. Be sure to seal the sole plate before insulating the basement.
Cover the exterior of your house or garage with vinyl siding that has energy-efficient insulation. Vinyl’s newest generation of designs feature a wood grain surface texture and are durable and virtually maintenance-free.
Windows Consider replacing single-glazed windows with high performance windows. Major technological changes extend beyond glass itself to low-conduction spacers and frames.
In the average home with conventional windows, half the heat loss through windows goes out cracks, much of the rest goes straight through the panes and frames. A less expensive option would be installing inside storm windows, which help to reduce heat loss and improve soundproofing.
Low-emissivity windows (known as low-E) use an almost invisible metal coating to reduce heat loss, reflect outside heat in summer and block ultraviolet light which fades draperies, carpets and furniture.
Windows manufactured with low-E films typically cost about 10 per cent more than regular double glazed windows, but they will reduce energy loss by as much as 30 per cent to 50 per cent. The energy savings alone should pay for that higher cost in less than 10 years.
If you want to follow the example of NRCan’s energy-efficient “Advanced House” you may care to choose high-performance windows which feature triple glazing, 12 mm argon filled spaces between the sheets of glass, two low-emissivity coatings, low-conduction spacers, and wood frames. Compared to standard doubleglazed units, these windows reduced the annual heating and cooling load by 30 per cent.
Budget first for your home’s biggest problem areas: north-facing windows (heat loss), large south-facing windows (sun traps in summer), or windows in line with the prevailing winter wind.
Choose window shades and blinds backed with an insulated material. For best results, look for three factors: vapour barrier, reflective surface, and a device that creates a tight seal with the window frame.
Install energy-efficient window and skylight film which allows light transmission while blocking heat and glare.
Repair areas between glass panes and wood frames with glazing compound. Putty costs less but tends to dry out and crack.
If you don’t need a window for ventilation or as an emergency exit, caulk it rather than install weatherstripping. It’s not only cheaper and faster to do, it’s more effective.
Skylight glazing should be as thermally resistant as possible. Heat loss in winter and gain in summer is greater than that of vertical windows. Consider light reflective, low-E glass to reduce overheating. An exterior awning, matchstick blinds, reflective film or even whitewash are other inexpensive ways to deal with summer heat.
Pools Use pump timers to regulate energy and length of time pool is heated.
Use a thermal pool blanket to keep water warm overnight and reduce water evaporation.
Have your pool heater serviced as recommended by the manufacturer.
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